AQUASCAPING

What is Aquascaping?

Through building and maintaining beautiful nature aquaria people re-learn the intricate connections between forms of life, plants, fish, microorganism and humans. Riches and beauty come from harmony, from balance. Aquaria are great teachers of this truth —  Takashi Amano

Aquascaping is a term we generally use for describing the setting up and decorating of an aquarium in such a way that it satisfies our own perceptions of what is aesthetically pleasing. Yet in truth, Aquascaping is so much more.

After all, our aquariums not only display our interest in beautiful or interesting fish species, but they also become part of our homes, our conversations, our pride and very often, our hidden dreams. And when we begin to compare those dreams, we suddenly begin to realise just how many options there are.

Most of us adore our fish, and will do anything to give them both a good and a beautiful home. However, there are aquarists who do not have fish as their priority. They do planted tanks — indoor underwater gardens of great beauty.

DUTCH PLANTED TANKS

 The first kind of these are what is known as ‘Dutch Planted Tanks’. As the name implies, these have been made famous by the Dutch who became great experts in this method, which specialises in the keeping of aquarium plants, rather than aquarium fish. I often wonder whether this hobby has been fed by the human desire to plant and grow beautiful plants, in spite of the lack of enough easy to reach and cultivate territory. As South Africans, used to vast expanses close to home,  we  seldom pay attention to just how very small the spaces are that Europeans call home. In Asian countries, where population in cities are much larger, these spaces shrink even more. What, then, do these people do when they live in apartments stacked one upon another without a single garden in sight? That’s right: They grow plants in window boxes and on balconies and excel at it. And they plant and grow their gardens in aquariums with absolute passion!

Do not for a moment believe that a Dutch tank is a haphazard, do-what-you-want affair. There are very strict styles and rules associated with the execution of these tanks, and they are regularly shown and praised, or criticised at club and  national championship events, with only the very best going forward to compete internationally!

NATURE AQUARIUMS

The second style of planted aquariums have equally much to do with fulfilling the human desire to grow things, and like the Dutch aquariums, these underwater gardens are also created to bring the beauty of nature into limited indoor spaces. They are known as ‘Nature Aquariums’ and have come into being because of the amazing creativity of an artistic Japanese photographer, internationally known simply as Amano. Takashi Amano not only uses his imagination, but always bases his aquascaping designs on snapshots of nature and brings them inside with the typical knack of a Japanese master gardener. Imagine walking in a forest, or somewhere in a glade and happening on a little (or large) scene that for a moment enthrals you and takes your breath away. This is what Amano does… and what he copies. He transplants his magic scenes into almost zen-like aquariums that have the most wonderful meditative qualities.

Again there are various different styles and certain set rules that determine what makes a beautiful, balanced Amano style ‘Nature Aquarium’. These are of course challenging, but for its sheer creativity, the style has adherents across the entire world. The competitive spirit amongst fans of the style is alive here too, and finally, after many regional events, culminates in a huge international competition/display event.

Pro-tip:

I must, however, point out that both the Dutch and Nature aquarium tanks are high-tech in that they require specific implements and plants and a regular fertilizing and pruning schedule, as well as CO2 dosing system of some sort, and pretty powerful lights. Initially they are also a bit costly to start, and they definitely require dedication and patience. If you cannot commit to these, do not start tanks in these styles!

SHALLOW AQUARIUMS

The latest development in the art of aquascaping, is the use of very shallow tanks. The planting methods are similar to those of the two previous styles. The difference comes with the particular ‘look’ that is achieved. They really are breathtakingly beautiful!

Because they are shallow, they are also a lot easier to cope with if you happen to be wheelchair-bound!

NANO AQUARIUMS

The scarcer large living spaces become, the more aquascapers must innovate to keep on having their hobby. This led to a new genre of aquascaping under the collective name of nano-tanks. Nano-tanks are small aquariums, and can have less, but should not have more than 30 litres of water.  You can follow any of the aquascaping disciplines in a nano tank; there are no restrictions.  Lately, though, there is a trend to cultivate a collection of nano-tanks,  and to enter them as small ‘show’ tanks into competitions, when they are then called ‘nature art’. They are usually dedicated to the scene rather than  inhabitants, so they often display exceptionally beautiful rocks, but they can also be used to display beautiful shrimps or small species of fish. Both choices are especially popular in Asia. 

And if that is still too large for you, you can join the ranks of those who set miniaturisation as their greatest challenge! The tiny tank below measures just 2.2 x 2.2 cm.

WABI KUSA

Also new on the scene is a style called Wabi Kusa, which when used in  thge context of aquascaping literally translated means ‘tiny nature’. Reminiscent of terrariums, these are miniature aquascapes which cater to the increasing scarcity of space. Wabi Kusa involve balls of substrate that are covered with plants that are grown in their terrestrial, or ‘emersed’ rather than ‘submersed’ form, very similar to plants that are grown hydroponically in nurseries. These substrate balls are placed directly into a small glass container with some water and then allowed to grow naturally. This approach is very different from aquascaping techniques, where the layout of the aquarium is planned with exquisite care and the plants are carefully maintained. Wabi-kusa allow nature to flow freely,  and as such they produce stunning results. For that reason there is a trend to create Wabi Kusa in what is known as nano-tanks, a little larger than just glass containers, but desktop-size nevertheless. In essence, Wabi-kusa is a celebration of the wildness and chaos of nature, but also of the impermanence of all things – and is evocative, extremely seductive and inspiring – a piece of untamed wilderness in your home, bedroom or office.

Whether we are planted tank fans or not, we can all learn a lot from looking at how cleverly these planted tanks have been designed and executed to imply depth, balance and texture that delights the eye.

NATURAL PLANTED TANKS

There is a third style of planted tank, referred to as ‘el Natural’ and sometimes Natural Planted Tanks (NPTs). In this case the method, which has been pioneered by Diana Walstad, a technical advisor for AGA, is both low-tech and low maintenance. Her book, “Ecology of the Planted Aquarium: A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist, explains how this approach has several basic tenets, and very specific do’s and don’ts.

As controversial as it sounds, she uses regular potting soil, capped by a small gravel layer as her substrate. (BUT PLEASE DO NOT DO SO without proper research!) She also says that with her method no filtration is needed, aside from a power head for water movement. Her lighting is low, at most  1-2 watts per gallon, and is often supplemented by sunlight from a window. Her tanks require no fertilization and no CO2 is used, only liberal fish feeding. She only does water changes every 6 months or so, as her plants act as filters, while her fish act as fertilizers, creating a balanced ecosystem. In fact, the very goal of her method is to set up an ecosystem where “plants and fish balance each other’s needs”. In this type of tank, the plants are the water purifiers rather than the usual filters. Rather than converting ammonia to nitrate, plants convert ammonia to plant mass, so there’s no buildup of nitrate and pH doesn’t drop over time.

The end result is a tank that looks very different from any of the carefully designed Dutch or Nature style aquariums — but that requires almost no maintenance, while maintaining a lush planted look. The types of plants available to someone starting an “el Natural” fish tank are somewhat limited, since lots of plants require high light and fertilization, but algae is rarely a problem with this approach. Unlike Dutch and Nature style aquariums, there is also no set school for plant placement, composition, or hardscape. It’s all left to your own ingenuity to create a tank that can match any of the other carefully designed tanks.

 However, this approach is not designed for someone who likes to re-scape their tank every few months, as moving plants around in this set-up  is difficult to do without disturbing the potting soil underneath the gravel. The natural soil substrate is probably the most volatile part of an “el Natural” style fish tank, and there are lots of do’s and don’ts explained in Diana’s book. However, once you get it set up, an “el Natural” style tank can be perfect for someone who is tired of dosing, testing, and re-dosing every day, or for someone who just doesn’t have the time for a high-tech aquarium.

I have no personal experience with this approach, but accept that as a technical advisor for The Aquatic Garden Association, famous for its annual international aquascaping competitions, Diana Walstad must know what she is talking about.

And that finally brings us to the fish fans and their aquariums!

But that is not as simple as it sounds either, because there are community tanks, species tanks, biotope tanks, as well as palludariums and ripariums — and each of these offer yet another array of choices we can make.

PLANTED COMMUNITY TANKS

In planted community tanks we try to create scenery that is beautiful to look at, but place the emphasis on the various fish species we choose to select and keep   for their compatability. The plants we choose must, of course, also be compatible with the fish we keep. While the composition of the aquascape is still extremely important, planting in this case has another important purpose besides just beauty. Upright growing plants serve to delineate territories and provide hides so that peace may prevail inside our mixed population underwater garden creations. Floating plants allow our fish to breed and hide their offspring, while decorative driftwood and rocks set the accent points to the scenes our imaginations brought forth. But biologically, plants also offer a recycling service and keep our aquariums stable and healthy by exchanging the partial uptake of fish waste for the production of underwater oxygen. If we have an aquarium with super healthy plants, we automatically have an aquarium that is good for our fish!

BIOTOPE AQUARIUMS

In Biotope aquariums, we mimic a specific piece of nature, by copying a small slice of the original habitat of our chosen species as closely as possible. When creating Biotopes, we concentrate on species that are found in that specific area, and add only those co-inhabitants that would naturally occur in that habitat and will have the same requirements as our main species. Rules are strict for biotopes. In international competitions, tanks that mix the wrong kind of plants or fish into their biotopes are always heavily penalised.

SPECIES TANKS

In species tanks we are quite close to biotopes, because in such aquariums we only keep one single species and create miniature nature-mimicking worlds for them, in which they can flourish and show off to their best. The difference here is that we do not introduce co-inhabitants. Some aquarists make this choice on purpose. But a whole lot more aquarists end up creating species tanks because of unwise initial choices, or because they have had to separate particularly aggressive species out of their community tanks. Nevertheless, a species tank can be as spectacular as a community tank if we choose to make it so.

PALLUDARIUMS & RIPARIUMS

In Palludariums we combine a slice of the underwater world with a slice of the world directly above it, and so embrace the concept that it takes more than just water for an ecological niche to be different and spectacular.

With Ripariums, the idea is to mimic river banks, both above and under water. Ripariums and palludariums initially seem to look very much alike. The difference is slight, but there is a difference, nevertheless. In palludariums there is above water space for land-living species – often frogs and the like. In Ripariums, there is above water planting, but no living space for terrestrial creatures.

AFRICAN CICHLID TANKS

An African cichlid tank is a mix of biotope and species tanks. Cichlids are notorious diggers and therefore not really suited to planted tanks, and the waters from which they come do not have any plants except for algae or estuarine reeds. For this reason cichlid tanks with plants are usually frowned upon. But that does not mean our aquariums need to be any less spectacular than planted tanks. The perfect Cichlid tanks is essentially a hard-scaped tank.

We can make a cichlid tank spectacular by catering to the species’ most famous trait: territorial aggression. Since peace is impossible in a cichlid tank unless every fish has a place it can call its own, our decorating talents must of necessity go into creating a spectacular scenes with rocks. This is called “Hardscaping”. And for this we look at nature too. We learn that nature seldom builds walls, that she uses ins and outs and niches and caves and crevices,  interspersed with gullies and valleys, with areas of pebble debris directly juxtaposed with arid, sandy spots. If you have ever been in the Cederberg area, and really looked at the bold ways of nature, you will know exactly what I mean.

REEF AQUARIUMS

The last school of aquascaping has to do with miming our ocean world – Reef Aquariums. Reef tanks are highly specialised in terms of technical know-how, as well as species. The aim is to mimic natural reefs so well that we can successfully keep marine species and and the exotic animals known as ‘corals’, so often mistaken as ‘ plants’,  in the closed eco-system of the aquarium. This entails creating currents and wave action in the tank, as well as a feeding system that mimics the ever abundant food production systems of the coral reefs. Any aquascaper who wants to start a reef tank must be dedicated to studying what the keeping of a reef tank entails before they even start thinking about venturing into this exquisitely exciting, but also taxing hobby.

IN SUMMARY

Whatever style you choose, your goal with any aquarium is to take a landscape from nature that stirs you and to put it under water. This means looking at Nature with fresh eyes and studying her ingenuity at creating magical places  –  and then translating them to  into your tank!

In fact, if Amano can teach us just one thing, it is this: When you are out in nature, pay attention. Focus on the small as well as the large. Really look and see just how beautiful certain spots are, and try to understand why they are beautiful. Remember what you see. Take it all in. Notice shapes, colours, textures, lines and arrangements. Take a photograph. Then come back home and plan your own aquascape. You can hardly do better than to copy what nature demonstrates right before your eyes every day!

But then, again, you may prefer to wander around in the recesses of your wildest imaginations, and create an aquarium scene that exists nowhere in nature  - and still have something beautiful to look at!

However, it is best to refrain from using animated movie hits like “Finding Nemo” as your inspiration! The reason is that you will come away with false expectations!  Animated films are masters at “creative licence”! In reality, the species that so charmingly interact and speak with each other in the film are totally incompatable as tank mates in the aquarium, and the plants of the movie simply do not exist in that environment in nature!

 As for learning more about the different aquarium styles and how to achieve them, we have inspiring photographs, as well as tons of information how to go about becoming an expert aquascaper and we will constantly add to our knowledge base 

YELLOW AND ORANGE AQUARIUM PLANTS

THE ENVIROMENTAL BENEFITS OF PERMEABLE PAVERS

Permeable pavers are an environmentally friendly solution for homeowners that want beautiful hardscapes without harming the environment. Paving stones have a rustic beauty that will enhance your curb appeal, create the perfect outdoor party space and lovely walkways meander through your garden. 

Replacing your concrete driveway or patio with permeable pavers will also help the environment by encouraging the natural water cycle.

Why permeable pavers are good for the environment

Permeable pavers (also known as interlocking concrete pavers) are made of layers of concrete pavers that have joints filled with tiny stones. Water seeps in through these joints, through the open graded gravel base and into the earth. The joints make these pavers 100 percent permeable, which promotes the natural water cycle. 

Solid concrete driveways and patios work the opposite way. When you have a concrete driveway, rainwater hits it and runs off into storm water drains. Rainwater is prevented from penetrating the earth, nourishing the soil and plant life and then evaporating into the atmosphere again. 

Another benefit of permeable pavers is that they help to remove pollutants from water. When rain or surface water is absorbed by a paving stone it seeps into the gravel base underneath before entering the soil. This gravel base serves as a sort of filtration system that can remove or reduce pollutants. 

Permeable pavers can also be made with recycled material. Homeowners that want to install driveway pavers and remove their existing concrete can recycle the old material, continuing to be a good steward of the environment. This recycled concrete is often used to make new paving stones.

Some homeowners elect to have their paving stones laid further apart in order to have grass grow in between them. This can be done in any space, including your driveway, patio and walkway. This will create a natural and rustic appearance.

Paving stones are durable

Permeable pavers are extremely durable and perfect for high traffic areas. Pavers are so strong that they can hold a fire truck without breaking or cracking. They are even recommended for parking lots as a Low Impact Development strategy. 

As such, more commercial developers are installing driveway pavers instead of laying solid concrete. Understanding the wide use of permeable pavers in commercial development, it is clear that these paving stones will hold up to your family’s personal use. Many paving stones also come with a lifetime guarantee for additional peace of mind. 

You can enhance your home’s curb appeal and help the environment today! Simply replace your cement driveway with permeable driveway pavers or have them installed in your patio and walkways. 

KOI PONDS ESSENTIALS

Koi Pond Essentials

The Japanese say that a Koi keeper’s expertise is measured by the number of Koi that have perished in his care.  If you wonder why, the answer is simple.  They know that human beings learn a lot more from their errors than from perfect instructions.

All I can offer are perfect instructions. In the light of the Japanese belief above, I am tempted to say: Use them, or lose them. Yet, I believe in people and ultimately believe that Koi lovers genuinely desire to do the best they can.

Therefore, in the hope that you are ready to take instruction — and provided you have not installed a pond yet, I urge you to commit this article to memory before you go out to buy your equipment, or talk to a pond installer, or begin the construction yourself.

If you have already put in your pond and it does not work, or you are still not sure if it has everything it is supposed to, you have my deepest sympathy. Read this article carefully. Do not cry over it, or rip it to shreds in anger. Read the introductory paragraph once more and keep what you learn here for referencing once you have regained your composure.

The subject of this article is koi ponds and only koi ponds! You see, a Koi pond can be a garden water feature, but a garden water feature can never be a Koi pond! 

Essentially, a Koi pond is a life support system, or outdoor aquarium, for the fancy carp known as Nishikigoi, which we usually call Koi.

That is why this article has nothing to do with garden water features! So if you are about to install a garden water feature and have superficially thought of keeping a few Koi, but have not yet done so, I urge you to think again. Because you must make a choice before you start!

So what is it you want: A Koi pond, or a garden feature?

Before you state that you do not really want a koi pond, stop for just a moment and ponder this: What if you change your mind and decide that you want to have Koi after you’ve put in your garden pond? By then, my friend, it will be too late. Because you can always use a Koi pond to grow water plants and create a tranquil environment, but more often than not, a water garden pond is an inadequate environment in which to keep and raise Koi.

Understand that there are several inherent flaws with water gardens that make it impossible to transform them into Koi ponds. They are too shallow and have no bottom drain. They are usually constructed with little or no thought to the purpose of proper water flow. They have several features that are sure-fire predator attractants, such as plant shelves that serve as creature perches for heron and other fish eating predators, and shallow areas that herons just love to wade in as they fish out your prized Koi, instead of frogs. Even if you’re absolutely certain you won’t ever have Koi, you are still better off building a pond that can serve as either a water garden pond or a Koi pond, because if you ever wanted to sell your house, the buyer might be swayed toward the purchase, simply because he or she has always wanted a Koi pond.

Unfortunately, most people never stop to ask the most essential question until after they have already put in their Koi pond, or until they’ve paid someone a hefty sum to put one in for them. And when they finally ask the experts  and get the expert answer, namely that the cheapest way to get what you need, is to start over, they usually lament the money they already spent. I cannot console you. All I can do is urge you to read the first paragraph of this article again.  

Here is the question you must ask (and should have asked):

What are the essential components of a good Koi pond?

What exactly do you need to have in a good Koi pond? Not much, really. There are five must-haves: a bottom drain, a surface skimmer, a pump, a filter, and an ultraviolet light. Although it’s possible to have a great pond without all of these, it is not an easy exercise. Actually, it is much harder to go without any one of these components, than it is to simply include them all. At the very least, build the pond so that the part you’re leaving out can be added later, when you really need it, for example, the ultraviolet light.

The Bottom Drain

The purpose of a bottom drain is to remove fish waste and other organic debris that accumulates on the bottom of the pond. Fish waste either floats (which can happen when the fish are not feeling well, or not digesting their feed properly), or it falls to the pond floor. The natural force of gravity, coupled with the turbulence caused by the Koi swimming in the pond, cause fish faeces and other sinking debris to tumble toward the bottom drain. Muck on the pond floor is one of the most dangerous threats to the health of your Koi. It is here that many of the most common and most significant, bacteria and viruses will breed and grow. Would you want to go swimming in your toilet? Well, neither do your Koi.

It’s best to have the pond floor slope slightly towards the bottom drain to facilitate the movement of bottom waste toward the drain. Bottom drains are available for both new installations as well as existing ponds that need a retrofit to include a drain. They are inexpensive and worth their weight in gold. The bottom drain also functions as an intake for the pump which will feed the filtration system.

The Skimmer

While a bottom drain removes materials from the bottom of the pond, the skimmer takes care of dust and other debris that collects on the pond surface. Dirt and dust particles adhere to the water surface, no matter where you live. As it builds up, it turns to muck. Add to this the grit and leaves that gather on the pond surface, and you have a pond scum that is prime territory for pathogens harmful to your fish’s health. A skimmer is a low profile, painless way to remove surface debris from the pond before it can become a problem.

There are a number of water garden skimmers available on the market, some of which include filters as well; we prefer skimmers that are skimmers and filters that are filters. The no-niche skimmer is an excellent product that can be retrofitted to an existing pond that doesn’t already have a skimmer. We like to use swimming pool skimmers; they’re easy to install and service. Prices vary from model to model and from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The Pump

This essential piece of pond equipment powers both the skimmer and the filter. We recommend an external pump for a Koi pond. The biggest reason is safety. All pumps fail eventually, no matter how well made they are. If yours is in the pond when it finally decides to quit working for good, it can do one of two things. If it’s an oil filled pump, it can spew oil all over your pond. Even if it is not an oil filled pump, it can release electricity into the pond. Either scenario is bad for your pond and potentially lethal for your fish. As we see it, your Koi are worth a lot more than your pump. If you keep prize Koi specimen, they are also irreplaceable, while your pump is easily replaced. It makes the most sense, then, to use a pump that has less potential for harming your Koi.

The second reason to use an external pump is convenience. A pump sitting outside the pond is easier to service, since you don’t have to don your scuba gear or swimming trunks to get to it. You can keep your hands and feet dry while inspecting, repairing, or checking an external pump. External pumps either come equipped with, or are adaptable to, primer pots and leaf baskets that catch small rocks and similar material that would normally clog a submersible pump. You will not believe me if I tell you how often frogs and water snakes land in these baskets!

The pump you select needs to be sized to the job it is expected to perform. Boy, now there’s a real understatement! Pump companies publish flow rates that are based on tests done in a laboratory, often without calculating the real-world pond setting that includes lifts, pipes, and elbows, filters, etc., all of which will reduce your flow rate. The pump manufacturer might say that the pump puts out 10,500 litres per hour. But what does that mean to you and me? It means that in a real pond situation, with a bottom drain, a skimmer, a lift of about three one metre to the water fall, several elbows, a run of tubing pipes, plus the resistance of a filter and an ultraviolet light, that same pump may only put out 5200 litres per hour — and that is IF the entire arrangement is designed properly.

In our never ending quest to save money, many people in the Koi pond industry have gravitated to low amperage pumps, but we are certainly not among them. In order to move large quantities of water, a low amp pump can often only handle low pressure and lower head, which is the distance between the water surface and the height to which you are pumping the water. This kind of pump can’t feed a tall waterfall, or pump water efficiently through a tall bead filter. Pump manufacturers (and their advertising copy-writers) realize that consumers pay attention to amperage, and have been known to list the running amperage, rather than the start-up amperage. To me this is deception, whether legal or not! By making the pump appear to be lower amp, these manufacturers tell customers what they want to hear, but not what they need to know.

Finding the right pump is critical and each application is unique. Make sure to size your pump according to its use in the overall scheme of your filter, plumbing, and other equipment. Pumps vary greatly in price. It’s best to shop around and ask other koi keepers for suggestions before you make your final choice

The Filter

Essentially, your pump and filter are a pair just like husband and wife. They need to fit each other well, or things will definitely end in divorce. Like the pump, the filter should be sized according to the pond and the anticipated load. Here the load means not only fish load, but also the amount of debris that is likely to enter the pond, whether from your fish, leaves, dirt, or other debris. (Live in a windy area?)

Then also consider this: Your fish load should be estimated to take into account that in a healthy environment, your Koi will grow like crazy! You may start out with a dozen 15 cm Koi, so your initial bio load will be a little over half a kilogram of  fish. But in three years, that load is likely to be close to 25 kilograms! And if you are a Koi enthusiast, you will probably have added some more fish!

Filters are like religion; everyone has one, and adherents are always convinced that theirs is the best… until they find a different one.

Forget about under-gravel filters. They don’t work for a higher fish load. Forget about lava rock that is totally inadequate for Koi pond applications. Forget swimming pool filters that need changing and backwashing the sand every week, just like diatomaceous earth filters. Forget trickle towers and bio balls, filter mat and vegetable filters. Because in truth, the perfect filter for a Koi pond just does not exist. But there are a few that will work well.

We like multi-chamber filters for Koi ponds, based on the filter systems used by Japanese Koi breeders. These usually consist of one or more settling chambers and a number of media chambers. When properly designed and maintained, this system can provide consistently high quality water. Their only ripple is that they must be cleaned periodically. Unfortunately, no one’s yet invented the self-cleaning filter. (But the goo makes a great fertiliser for your garden!)

In the last few years, we have also successfully used bead filters. When properly sized to the task, they have proven both effective and user-friendly. It’s been necessary to clean them more frequently than the chambers of the Japanese-style filter system, but this is less tiresome and odiferous,  thanks to the use of a back wash valve. When used in conjunction with ultraviolet lights, both of these systems are very effective. Ultimately, trial and error will lead you to the precise system that’s best for you.

The Ultraviolet Light

The beauty of the ultraviolet (UV) light is that it will virtually eliminate the curse of pea-soup green water. You can put a filtering system in place to first see if it’s enough to keep the pond clear all year long. The next year, if you’re not satisfied, you can add a UV light if you want additional water clarity.

Although they’re sometimes sold as “sterilizers”, they don’t really sterilize at the flow rates generally used for ponds. UV lights might sterilize when the water passes through one at the rate of 15 litres per minute, but in most pond applications, the water is racing past the light at 75 to 250 litres per minute. At this speed, the UV light does not sterilize. It doesn’t need to, anyway. Its primary purpose is to inhibit the growth of free-floating algae and prevent the dreaded pea soup green algae syndrome in the pond. It won’t be effective at sterilizing the water to prevent fish illness or disease. Even if it could, it only neutralizes pathogens that flow past the light, and can’t reach pathogens that remain in the pond, on the walls or the pond floor, or on the fish themselves.

Basic Design Considerations

Depth

Besides these components, the Koi pond should be at least 1.5 m deep and have nearly vertical sides. The 1.5m depth doesn’t have anything to do with thermal layering and applies no matter where you live. Koi need a depth of at least 1.2m to get enough exercise. To keep fit, they need to swim up and down, not simply from side to side in the pond. What is more, large Koi like to feed in a perpendicular position, with their mouths sticking out of the water. They can’t do that in 1 metre of water. So you need a pond that’s at least two times deeper than the length to which your largest Koi will grow and for most Koi owners, that usually means a minimum depth of 1.5m. Of course you can go deeper. I have a client who converted her swimming pool to a gorgeous Koi pond once her children left home. I first thought the deep side at 1.9m perhaps too deep. But she painted the pool black and added an observation deck and her Koi not only display gorgeously, but are beautifully muscular and very healthy.

Water Flow

The right water flow is critical in a Koi pond. You don’t want any dead spots where debris can build up and never be removed from the pond. A good rule of thumb is to have the water flow in at one end,  and out at the other. This may not completely prevent dead spots, but will cut them down drastically. You can use waterfalls or under-surface returns to bring water back to the pond. If you use a waterfall to create a return flow, make sure to install a bypass in case it ever leaks or simply for when you need to turn it off. 

If you use an under-surface return, you may need supplemental aeration. Koi have high oxygen demands, especially when they are fed. Many Koi owners have air pumps, venturis, or air stones to supply extra oxygen. An aerated bottom drain is also very effective. It has an air bladder (a round disk with lots of holes in it). Air is pumped to the bladder, causing a circulatory effect where air is released at the bottom and raises in a column to the pond surface. The water circulation causes debris to be sucked into the bottom drain. Make sure to put aeration devices on a separate switch so that they can be turned off when you want to see your Koi without the distraction of waves or bubbles.

Always make sure to include a few stubbed-off ‘why in the world pipes’ through the pond wall. These are extra pipes that you may not need right away. Later on when you wish to make changes to your set-up you’ll ask yourself why in the world you did not  put extra pipes in when you originally built and installed the pump for your pond.

Budget For a Pond

No matter how you do the math, Koi ponds are expensive. If you can’t afford one, then make a water garden for a few goldfish, save, and in a few years, scrap the water garden and upgrade to a full-scale Koi pond. Just do not compromise on the construction of a proper Koi pond. In the long run, you’ll be glad you waited until you could afford the real thing! So will the Koi you intend to keep.

Finally, a thought about “Experts”

It’s always a good idea to get help from an expert, someone who is truly knowledgeable about Koi pond design and installation. Once you find that source, stick with them from beginning to end. Make very sure your “expert” knows about Koi ponds, not just landscaping or water garden construction in general. Make very sure your expert has a reliable reputation. Make doubly sure! Don’t burn your fingers. Many Koi owners have! Ask to see examples of what they’ve already done so that you can be assured that they know what they’re talking about — and actually speak to the owners of those ponds. Koi keeping is very popular at the moment, and that kind of fame inevitably attracts those inevitable sharks who talk a good show but cannot deliver. They can be found everywhere! The old saying “buyer beware” is just as true today as it ever was. 

RED AQUARIUM PLANTS

 Here we present you with a catalogue of red and pink aquarium plants to help you identify and select  species you may want to use in your aquascape.

FEW WAYS/ TIPS TO UPGRADE YOUR LANDSCAPE

Are you getting tired of your landscape? Does it seem like it is all one color - green in the spring and summer and brown in the fall and winter? 

Is there plant material out there that has been there since time began? Have you been trimming those evergreen shrubs faithfully only to see them growing bigger and rounder every year? 

If you say “yes” to any of these questions, then you are definitely ready to upgrade your landscape!

There are quite a few ways you can upgrade your existing landscape. From the less costly to a sizable investment, you can spruce up the curb appeal of your property while adding to the value of your home. 

Evaluate your existing landscape using the following checklist:

• Is there seasonal interest?
• Do you have a flow or theme to your plantings?
• Is there a feature plant or area that draws attention to the best face of your home?
• Do you utilize annual or perennial plants to add splashes of color and foliage interest?
• Could you use stone or brick (hardscape) to enhance certain areas?

Seasonal interest means that there is always something going on in your landscape. This could mean you have bulbs in early spring, then rhododendrons or azaleas blooming. 

A good place to start is by planting annual flowers in the summer and mums in the fall. 

Having a flow in your landscape simply means the layout of your plantings and the groupings of similar or same types of plants. A theme could be a “woodland” area or “butterfly garden” area. 

Sometimes adding a feature plant or utilizing annuals and perennials could make a world of difference in a mature landscape. A feature plant usually is the focal point of your landscape and is typically an ornamental tree or shrub. If you have a lot of open spaces between plantings, annuals and perennials will fill them in nicely and aren’t too costly.

Finally, use stone, boulders, bricks or retaining walls to focalize an area or grouping.

 Add a hardscape walkway or patio for a beautiful entranceway or exit for your home.

GREEN AQUARIUM PLANTS

On these pages we present you with a catalogue of green plants suitable for freshwater aquaria, to help you identify and select various species