AQUARIUMS TANK MAINTENANCE TIPS AND TRICKS

Dear Fellow aquarists, it is always good to know that we can make tank maintenance easier or better. If you have any tips, we would be delighted to publish them here!

Cleaning and disinfecting with Hydrogen Peroxide (H202)

H202 is the perfect solution for sterilising fish tanks, the pipe work, the glass and plastic of your aquarium.

Unlike bleach, Hydrogen Peroxide (H202)will turn into harmless water and oxygen after 24 hours in contact with water. It is therefore the perfect solution for use in the aquarium environment.

Not only will it kill all pathogens and algae spores at a dilution of 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide to 150 parts water, but used in stronger concentrations of 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide to 10 parts water it is ideal for cleaning algae from glassware and ceramic diffusers.

It is also very useful in treating tanks where major algae growth has been a problem. There is no form of algae that will survive this treatment.

For tank sterilisation, where there has been disease or bad algae infestation, the Hydrogen Peroxide should be added, the tank filled with water and the whole system including filtration run for a 24 hour period. Naturally, all livestock must be removed and placed elsewhere as this product is lethal to all organic life-forms in its initial active state.

It must also be remembered that any filter medium treated will now need re-cycling as all beneficial bacteria will also have been killed.

After 24 hours the tank should be emptied, refilled with fresh tap water and run again for another 24 hours. It is at this point that the tank is ready to safely commence fresh set up procedures. The entire system must now be treated as if you are starting from scratch.

For cleaning diffusers and glassware, the objects should be left to soak for several days and the solution strengthened as you see fit.

It is a good idea to keep two ceramic diffusers so that whilst one is soaking clean, the spare may be used in its place.

Please note again: this product must not be used with livestock present.

WATER CHANGES MADE EASY

Rather that siphoning water into buckets and then carrying these from tank to sink or drain, a much simpler method is to use a small compact powerhead/pump. Once the basic vacuuming of the tank is over the rest of the water to be changed can be done directly to a waste source such as a window, toilet, or drain. A small but powerful pump can be used for this. Something like the MaxiJet 1000 is perfect.

A length of standard hose can be push fitted onto the powerhead which is then placed into the aquarium. The other end of the hose is then run to waste and the powerhead switched on. This makes the draining of large bodies of water far less of a task.

This means you are done without the need for buckets and the consequential spills of aquarium water.

Water can also be put back into the tank from a water source by reversing the process and placing the powerhead/pump into the water container and placing the other end of the hose in the aquarium. This reverse process then fills the aquarium simply and easily. Believe me — until you have actually practised this method, you will not understand how much more pleasurable your tank maintenance can become!

This method is particularly useful for tanks over 100 litres in volume.

When not being used for changing water, your powerhead can be used to create a strong, highly efficient water flow around the aquarium, dispersing both CO2 and dispelling any ‘dead’ spots in the tank.

CLEANING THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR AQUARIUM

A cheap and effective way to clean aquarium glass is with newspaper and vinegar. Simply scrunch up some newspaper and dampen it with some standard vinegar, then wipe the glass. This method will not result in visible streaks on the glass once it has dried. Obviously, this method can only be used on glass which is not submerged in water!

AN EASY WAY TO WASH GRAVEL, OR SUBSTRATES

Here is an easy way to wash substrates that need to be washed. Go to the local home improvement store and get a paint strainer that fits over a 20 litre bucket. If you don’t have a 20 litre bucket, get one of those also. Take the strainer and place it over the bucket. Pour about 2kg of the substrate in question into the strainer. Use a hose to wash the substrate, bun not a high pressure sprayer. You don’t want or need to break your substrate up just get it clean. Now pull the strainer off the bucket, dump the water and repeat till the water is fairly clear. Using this method will save the “fines” but get rid of the dust.

ARCHITECTS JOB DESCRIPTION

Architects work in the construction industry and are involved with designing new buildings, extensions or alterations to existing buildings, or advising on the restoration and conservation of old properties.
They can work on individual buildings or on large redevelopment schemes, and can be responsible for the design of the surrounding landscape and spaces.
Architects work closely with their clients and users to make sure that projected designs match their needs and are functional, safe and economical. They usually control a project from start to finish and work with a number of construction professionals, including surveyors and engineers, producing drawings and specifications that the construction team works to.
The role of an architect is very varied and can range from freelance and small-scale project work to employment with multinational organisations working on iconic landmarks.

Typical work activities

Architects are involved from the earliest stages of a building project, which can start with developing ideas with the client, establishing budgets, assessing the needs of the building and its users, and its impact within the local environment.
They assist with site selection and work closely with contractors on site, ensuring that works are carried out to specific standards and that, above all, the building is sustainable, functional and aesthetically pleasing. They also need to have an awareness of commercial and financial considerations.
 Responsibilities vary but typically include:

• discussing the objectives, requirements and budget of a project;
• consulting with other professionals about design;
• preparing and presenting feasibility reports and design proposals to the client;
• advising the client on the practicality of their project;
• using IT in design and project management, specifically using computer-aided design software;
• keeping within financial budgets and deadlines;
• producing detailed workings, drawings and specifications;
• specifying the nature and quality of materials required;
• preparing tender applications and presentations;
• negotiating with contractors and other professionals;
• preparing applications for planning and building control departments;
• drawing up tender documents for contracts;
• project managing and helping to coordinate the work of contractors;
• controlling a project from start to finish;
• regular site visits to check on progress, ensuring that the project is running on time and to budget;
• resolving problems and issues that arise during construction;
• ensuring that the environmental impact of the project is managed

COMPREHENSIVE KNOWLEDGE ABOUT LANDSCAPE LIGHTING EXPLANATION BY GOLDENSCAPE

What  is landscape lightning??

Low voltage (12 volt) systems are popular for landscape lighting for many good reasons. Low voltage systems are perfect for creative highlighting of trees, gardens, artwork and other landscape features. Low voltage fixtures are easy to install. Low voltage cable can be buried in a shallow trench, run through conduit or buried underground. A low voltage system is flexible. You can easily move fixtures to accommodate plant growth or to change lighting effects. Low voltage systems are safe and energy efficient. Transformers reduce standard voltage from 120 volts to a safe 12 volts. There is no risk of electrical shock to children or animals if the cable is accidentally cut. Lamps use less wattage and may not have the brightness of 120 volt, higher wattage lamps.

Deciding what you want to light and which techniques to use.
The first step in designing any lighting system is to determine what you want the light to do for you. Walk around your property, look out your windows and doors, and think about the kind of mood you would like to create. Look for possible focal points for dramatic accent lighting or plan for soft but safe pathway lighting. Create romantic shadows with subtle moonlighting or make entertainment areas come alive with bright party lighting. Next; review the techniques of accent lighting. Select the technique you feel best achieves the mood you with to create. Some light will "spill" from the accent areas. Work outward from these accent points to fill in areas with path or spread lighting. Balance and subtlety are key tools in path and spread lighting. Try out different techniques, and have fun discovering the beauty of your yard at night. Be sure that when you place your fixtures they will not interfere with lawnmowers, traffic or be a source of irritating glare inside your house or to your neighbors.

Selecting Transformers

Low voltage systems require the use of transformer to reduce standard 120 volt power from your home to 12 volts. To determine the transformer size you will need, add up the wattages of all lamps you plan to use. Select a transformer that matches as closely as possible the total lamp wattage. For example: if you have 11 fixtures all rated at 24.4 watts-you will need a 300 watt (VA) transformer. (11 x 24.4 = 268.4 watts). Generally, the total lamp load should not be less that one-third the transformer's wattage rating, nor exceed its maximum wattage capacity. If your total wattage is too high, either divide the load between two transformers or use a more powerful transformer.
 
Planning Outdoor Lighting Projects
The first step is planning your outdoor lighting layout. Start with a simple diagram of where you want your outdoor lighting fixtures, and mark down their bulb wattage. To determine what size transformer will be necessary, add up your total bulb wattage and multiply by 1.3. A similar equation is used to determine outdoor lighting cable length: measure all distances and multiply that total by 1.3. We recommend a 12 gauge cable for most runs, and a thicker gauge (10/2 and 8/2) for longer runs and runs with higher loads.

When you have the necessary equipment, assemble your outdoor light fixtures and place them where they will be installed. It is important to place the fixtures in the correct places where they will do the most good. Make separate cable "runs" from the transformer to the fixtures. Keep outdoor lighting fixtures that are of similar distance from the transformer grouped together in the same "run." This minimizes voltage drop and loss of brightness. Maintain less than 180 watts in any one "run."

Planning low voltage layouts

These diagrams show some of the most common low voltage cable layouts. Your choice of layout can help minimize voltage drop.

1. Straight run installation Fixtures run in sequence directly from the transformer.


2. Loop installation
Helps reduce voltage drop and produces a more uniform light output. It is important that you connect the same wire leads to the proper transformer terminals by noting the ridge or marking on one side of the cable.


3. Split load installation
Run up to the recommended maximum cable length in two or more directions from the transformer.



4. "I" Installation
Allows more equal distribution of power to the center of a run, or to a run some distance away. Cable running from transformer must be of a heavier gauge (8 or 10 gauge).

Lack of Variety
Be careful not to use too much of the same kind of lighting. Vary the outdoor lighting techniques and types to bring out a fresh and bright look to your landscape. There are many specific types of outdoor lights to choose from, such as flood lights, spotlights, and path lights. Many contractors solely rely on up lighting. Add some down lighting for more dimension, to follow good Dark Sky Practices, and reduce light pollution.
Too Symmetrical
a common problem found in pathlights: lights placed too closely and evenly makes the path or driveway look like a runway. Try staggering the lights, creating something of a zig-zag pattern from one side to the other. Also, refrain from putting pathlights equally on opposite sides.

Unbalanced Lighting
Do not place outdoor lighting fixtures in areas that will divide a yard. Make sure the light is balanced amongst the entire canvas of the property. You want to draw the eye around the entire yard, not necessarily toward one specific area. You especially don't want to create a hard "border" of light around your property line.

How to minimize Voltage Drop
The closer your lamps are placed to the transformer, the higher their voltage (and wattage) readings will be. Those farthest away will have lower voltages. If a cable run is too long, or it too many lights are being powered by a single transformer, noticeable voltage drop may occur. Voltage drop causes the lights farthest from the transformer to become dim. Voltage drop can be minimized in several different ways:

use heavier gauge cable 8 gauge K-15503 BK 10 gauge K-15504 BK
use a higher rated transformer
multiple taps 12-13-14
use multiple transformers
shorten cable lengths
reduce individual fixture wattages
reduce the total number of fixtures on a run Voltage drop can actually work to your advantage if differences in lamp brightness levels are not objectionable. Lower voltage will extend the life of a lamp, requiring less frequent replacement.
Selecting Mounting Accessories

Designing Line Voltage Systems


Line voltage (120 volt) systems are used where brilliant illumination is required for safety or security, for lighting large areas, or when you must light from farther away, such as up lighting large trees. In many cases, a landscape lighting design can be developed using both line voltage and low voltage components. The same steps used to design a low voltage system apply when designing landscape lighting using a line voltage system. Focus attention on the key points of interest using accent lighting. Provide for safe access of walkways and stairs. Illuminate activity areas as needed to maintain the mood you wish to achieve. Installation of a line voltage system is more complicated than a low voltage system. We recommend always working with a professional electrical contractor to make sure that your system is installed correctly and meets local electrical codes and requirements.

Lighting Techniques
Correct lighting techniques will highlight your important features and create the perfect amount of drama in a yard. Find out what techniques works best for your home's architectural features and garden accents.
Highlighting
This is a common and quite useful technique in outdoor lighting. Highlighting is created by placing a spotlight at the base of an outdoor feature. By varying the distance and angle of the light fixture, you can experiment with different lighting designs. For example, trees often need two or more fixtures to provide sufficient illumination.
Silhouetting

By placing a spotlight behind the feature, aimed towards an adjacent wall, you can create an illuminated backdrop. This dark outline of the object is useful for showcasing plants and other dense features. It looks especially striking in the sunset.  
 
Scalloping - By varying the position and angle of the lighting fixture from silhouetting, you create a lighting technique called scalloping. By aiming the light straight up from the base of the fixture, it creates a cone-shaped illuminated backdrop. This works best with symmetrical objects, creating a dramatic and elegant sensibility.
Shadowing
 
A similar technique to silhouetting, shadowing also places the fixture towards the base of the feature, aimed towards an adjacent wall. However, the goal is to create a softer shadow, and often works best with a tree that has open, delicate foliage. The effect of the tree's movement in the wind is sure to add drama to any home facade.
 


Grazing - The grazing technique is placing an upright fixture very close to the surface of a feature to bring out its unique texture. It is the perfect technique for an old tree with complex and interesting bark, or a stone wall with lots of relief since it brings out light areas and dark areas at the same time.

Wallwashing - Wallwashing creates a soothing and even glow that comes off the wall or facade it's pointed towards. For best results, place the lighting fixture a few feet away from the feature, and give it a sideways angle. By shining along side the wall, it maintains an even and somewhat subtle ambient lighting for the nearby area. A wide angle flood light with low wattage is recommended for this, as opposed to a spotlight.

Moonlighting - Create moonlighting techniques by placing a large fixture with a full glare guard high up inside a tree, and angled downwards. This effect looks like moonlight shining down through the branches. It causes attractive shadow patterns on the ground to appear, plus it provides a very natural and beautiful lighting effect.

Downlighting - The downlighting technique is similar to the moonlighting technique. Place a fixture high up, inside a feature like a trellis, tree, or eave, and cast downwards over a large area. Place the light higher if you intend to illuminate a large portion of the yard, and lower if you wish to illuminate a path or garden.

 
Accenting - Any lighting that draws special attention to a specific feature is considered accent lighting. Specifically angled uplighting or downlighting can be used as accent lighting, to point out an architectural design, plant, or other feature. Try using a narrow beam spotlight from a hidden fixture to add a flair of mystery to your accent lighting.

Pathlighting -is created by placing small fixtures along the borders of walkways, driveways, and patios. It is important that the style of these path lights be considered carefully. It is also important to be sure that they are positioned to illuminate the path, but also placed so that they avoid being kicked, moved, or getting in the way of the lawnmower.