I have seen many a
cichlid tank. Most of them drive me to despair. They depend on
displaying ‘beauty’ only via the colourful fish! As for the rest, most
Chichlid tanks are middling to mediocre.
Many is the time I wondered: What happened to the innate creativity of their human owners?
It took a while before I found out that
the problem did not rest with creativity. The problem stems from a lack
of knowledge of what the species requires for its well-being and then a
lack of knowledge about how to construct rocks into a beautiful habitat.
We can change that! You can build a
beautiful and functional habitat! Anyone can build a beautiful habitat. I
am going to show you how.
A cichlid tank is essentially a Hardscape.
This is why I urge you at least read my article on hardscaping, as it
contains a myriad of useful tips and tricks. It is called “Between a
Rock and a Hard Place”, where you also found this article. This article also teaches you exactly how to compose your Hardscape via the rule of thirds. This is information I do not want to repeat here.
As a reward, I am going to begin this article by telling you a very big secret:
If you have placed your stones properly in your hardscape, the rest of the scape, as if by magic, will lay itself out for you.
You will know it the second this happens for you. It is as if the
moment you attain a harmony and balance in your placement, everything
else is drawn to and wants to become part of that balance.
I also have a second secret to building a beautiful cichlid Hardscape. We will do it OUTSIDE of the tank first. You may think that I am crazy, but you will only think so until you have done it your
way — which means dripping water all over the place and cursing with
frustration, or even worse, cracking the floor, or a wall of your tank!
Trust me, my way is better.
PLANNING AND WEIGHING YOUR OPTIONS
The first thing you
have to consider is how your tank is going to be viewed. From the front
only, from the sides too, or perhaps from all sides because your tank is
a room divider? Is it going to be viewed from eye-level when you are
standing, or when you are seated, or will it be partly viewed from
above? This is important, because it will determine how and where and
how you are going to place your rocks.
The second thing you have to consider is
the importance of water flow. Walls of rock break up water flow very
efficiently. You may need an additional power head blowing into and
through your stone terraces and mounds to ensure good, full and complete
circulation. You do not want debris collecting in a place you can not
see or get to!
The third thing you need to consider, and certainly the most important, is the natural habitat of your cichlid species.
I assume, of course, that you know
everything about cichlid tank water chemistry and water changes, as well
as the nature and feeding habits of the species you want to keep, and
that your only worry is how to create the perfect aquascaped habitat for
them. If you do not, there is an excellent article
here.
Then, before we consider what we are
going to do about your cichlid habitat, I need to plant a little seed,
which I hope will grow and flourish by the end of this article.
Below there are three images of cichlid tanks
The first is a tank created by Aquarium
Design Group – a big name lately in the USA. All the tanks designed by
this group are truly stunning to look at, and each single one is
designed for modern living surrounds. Sadly, few, if any of them has
anything to do with the fishes’ natural habitat, or their needs. In the
case of this particular cichlid tank, there is no dispute about it being
modern, streamlined, and beautiful in a stark way. But it also seems
sterile. In fact, it seems as if much more thought had been given to the
tank as an interior design element, than to whether this arrangement
will make the Cichlids happy. Yes, Cichlids are hardy and they will do
well in a tank like this, irrespective. But it is unlikely that they
will ever breed in a tank like this, and as unlikely they will behave as
they characteristically would, were they in an environment closer to
what they evolved from and are hardwired to.
The second tank was an entry in the AGA
International Competition and was titled ‘Malawian Bliss’. We clearly
see the attempt here to simulate a more natural habitat. The Hardscape
is well done, and the rocks are algae covered as they should be, but for
me this tank lacks that certain ‘oomph’! There is no visual tension in
the composition of the aquascape. The horizontal line, while texturally
different, is relatively even across the entire tank. If you have read
my hardscaping article, you would immediately ask — has this person
never heard of the rule of thirds? And are there really enough retreats
for the fish?
The third tank was entered in the AGA
international competition in 2008 as a Tanganyika Biotope.While
initially impressive from a rockwork technique point of view, I
have to agree with the judges, who found this tank oppressive and much
too bare. I find the tank somewhat pedantically put together, a case
where science and study has somehow gone wrong. Perhaps what bothers me
most is that the proverbial aquarium ‘box of glass’ has travelled no
further than transforming into a ‘box of rock face’. Since I am
naturally not unkind, I must make some allowances. This tank may well
have grown in the meantime, the contestant may have taken the judges
comments to heart and the tank today may be a totally different vision.
But the point is to show you that being clever does not necessarily make
a beautiful aquascape.
What do you think?
In contrast, let us compare these three
tanks with the natural rock structures at Otter Point, Lake Malawi,
shown in the photograph below. In my geographical experience, what we
see above water is usually a very good indication of what we will see if
we dive below the water surface. So what do you think now?
While I grant that tastes differ, I
personally would not like to have any of these three tanks in my home.
For me they are much too far removed from the tenets that nature teaches
us. Where is that feeling of wild abundance, of species having evolved
and survived through millennia, of species wanting to reproduce and
defend their territories. In short, where is the essence of cichlid
life?
A few colourful species flitting past
do not make a tank come to life. For me, it is the down and dirty
everyday life of each species that makes the difference, their
interaction with co-habitants and the beauty with which nature creates
and divides their habitats, filling it with countless possibilities for
each kind to find a niche and a home and to truly be what they were
meant to be.
So inevitably, before we begin, we must ask this question:
WHAT DO YOU WANT TO ACHIEVE?
Would you like to create a biotope,
which is a true simulation of a natural cychlid habitat? When
interpreted in the strictest sense (and I am talking about international
competition rules), this would mean that you cannot mix species from
different lakes, or for that matter, different continents. So, say you
want to create a Lake Malawi biotope, or a mini biotope that can be
found inLake Malawi, you would have to study from what areas the species
you want to keep come, whether they inhabit rocky shores or live closer
to the sand, or whether they come from areas closer to river estuaries.
You would also have to ascertain which species co-habit naturally.
If you are not interested in entering
international competitions, you can of course choose to treat you tank
as a less rigidly constricted habitat, and your approach can then
differ quite significantly from that of the aqua-scaper who wants a
biotope.
Nevertheless, we are more likely to have
a beautiful, and in all ways a successful Cichlid tank if we follow the
lessons that nature teaches us. It
is at this point, when we actually stop to ponder about what would be
the best habitat for the species we want to keep, that we finally become
more than just ‘creative’ aquascapers – we become responsible aquascapers!
There is really only one aquascape that
will reveal the true behaviour of cichlids: their natural instincts,
their amazing personalities, their wonderfully pugnacious ways, their
desire to mate and spawn; and only one habitat in which there will be an
increase in their spawning frequency. The best aquascape for cichlids
is plain sand and rocks. A lot of sand and many rocks. Follow this
simple recipe, and success is almost guaranteed.
Why rocks and sand? Firstly, because
this is their natural biotope. While fish-keeping is both an art and a
science, it seems stupid to neglect what nature tells us about Cichlid
habitats. Cichlids evolved in this specific environment for millions of
years and everything they do, even the way they look, is adapted to
their environment. Give them the habitat to which they are hard-wired
from an evolutionary point of view, and arrange it in such a way that
aggression is reduced, and you will have a tank in which cichlids
thrive. Keeping Cichlids in any environment other than rocks and sand
is by definition already “unnatural”.
The second reason for choosing a sand and stone environment is that Cichlids use these two elements all the time for their everyday needs. The Malawian rock dwelling cichlids (mbuna), their Victorian counterparts and the Tropheus genus
from lake Tanganyika, are classic examples. They use the huge rocks to
eat algae from, together with the invertebrates or crustaceans that
live in it. They also use these rocks to hide, or to spawn. In short,
they spend their whole lives next to rocks. Keeping them in an aquarium
without rocks is noit only unnatural, it is simply cruel. Haps, on the
other hand, use sand to create their spawning pits, clean their gills,
and now there is evidence that they even use it to digest their food. So
sand is not simply a substrate or an accessory, it is a vital element
of their surroundings, and it is essential for their well being.
The third reason is that when we examine
the aesthetics of the sand and rock combination, nothing really beats
it. It is pale and neutral and brings out the colours of even the
dullest fish. It does not distract the eye from the fish, as colourful
plants would, thus making your precious fish the very center point of
this habitat. And because it is made up of the essentials for the
species, it automatically creates the impression that this is a
miniature of the natural lake. Sand and rocks, dear Cichlid lover, is
all African cichlids from the Rift Lakes will ever need!
So where do our materials for our aquascaping project come from?
COLLECTING THE ROCKS
As it is unlikely that you will find
rocks that show water-worn characteristics in your local fish store or
at the landscapers, you will need to collect your rocks from areas where
you are most likely find the right kind of stone. That means dry stream
beds and river banks, or if you live near the sea, rocky seashores.
Before you set off on your hunt, you need to consider several things:
- If you have not yet read the Hardscaping article,
you will not know what to look for when I refer to a main focal point, a
secondary focal point and a third accent point, nor will you understand
how we are going to employ the rule of thirds to give us the most
harmonious result. You have to collect rocks that will help you to
fulfil certain design elements. How can you, if you do not know what is
required? So read the article before you begun hunting for rocks!
- Know the exact dimensions of your tank. When it comes to housing African cichlids, bigger is always better.
Many hobbyists keeping African Cichlids have tanks well exceeding the
1.000 liter mark and even 2.000 liters is not very rare. Buying a small
tank of 20-30 liters is not suitable for cichlids from Lake Malawi,
except for the very smallest species. This is mainly the reason why we
hold that Cichlids are not for the beginner, except perhaps when it
comes to the dwarf species or shell dwellers. In my opinion the smallest
tank for Cichlids should be at the very least around the 400-450 litre
mark, because you need space in which to configure a habitat that will
help you reduce Cichlid aggression.
If one follows the correct pathway, one is usually supposed to learn
the basics of fish keeping with a small community tank and then move to a
bigger tank with more demanding species. Do not follow this rule with Cichlids!
Choose a large tank if you have
not bought one yet, and preferably choose one that is wider than
‘normal’. Even just 10 cm wider can make an enormous difference to the
habitat you can then provide. It is also easier to keep a large tank
stable, and since cichlids can grow very fast, it is the best way to
prevent ending up with a tank which is much to small for the adult
species. Smaller tanks are more suited to the smaller and dwarf cichlid
species. The other point is that the concept of ‘a big’ stone’ can
markedly differ in size, depending on the dimensions of your tank.
- Keep
in mind that stones are heavy! On average you must calculate that a
rock is 2.5 times heavier than water. Not only must your tank stand and
house floor be able to bear the weight of the rock arrangement,
substrate and water, but you must also pick up and get the stones to
your car and then repeat this process to get them into your home! If you
are going to build a very large hardscape, you may want to consider
using some artificial rocks in addition to real ones, at least for the
bulkier parts of your scape. I have very successfully used ‘artificial
rock’ water-features which I found at a garden centre to create bulk and height in a very large tank.
- The
depth of the sand layer in a cichlid tank should be at least between 5
and 10 cm. Sand also weighs 2.5 more than water. In view of that, a 10
cm layer in a tank 2.1 m x 0.6 m x 0.6 m, which is quite typical for big
African cichlids, will weigh 315 Kg.! Is your tank stand and the floor
of the room strong enough to bear the entire load? Make sure! Do the
math again: Aquarium + rocks + sand + water! Are you sure? If you need
to ‘brace’ your tank, do so well in advance. Also cut a solid board to
go under your tank, so that you know it is stable and cannot warp or
bulge. If you choose a really large tank, do not put it on a wooden
floor that rests on joists unless you have taken the necessary
precautions.
- Also
keep in mind that no under-gravel filter can be used with the sand, as
it will become too packed to allow any kind of flow to the filter. On
the other hand, with the help of stones or other materials, sand can be
cleverly used to create different levels in the tank, which can be
something unusual and attractive. Instead choose a powerful filtration
system, that cab be housed in your tank or a sump, as good, even
over-filtration is essential when keeping Chichlids
- Take
a ruler or other measuring device with you. Collecting a beautiful huge
stone, flat or round, is pointless if it won’t fit in your tank.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
Consider the following images. I used
them in the Hardscaping article. The reason I draw your attention to
them here is that you should think in terms of creating groups
of stones when you go out to collect rock. In these images we see the
rocks skilfully built into one single focal feature. But, depending on
the size of your tank you may want to use two or three such groups, or
in a very large tank combine quite a few of them. Also look for large,
medium and small groups — you will use them with the rule of thirds to
create secondary focal points, as well as different harmonious levels!
When we create an aquascape we also want to curve our stone from the
back to the front and back again several times in order to delineate
separate territories, rather then build a static wall. Likewise, a
smaller or medium group could perhaps form a separate island closer to
the foreground.
For an African cichlid tank you will
need some rounded boulders, or if you prefer more angular stones, at
least choose stones which have SLIGHTLY softened or rounded corners.
Also try to find matching rocks with a more pyramidical shape, because
these can help you to break up the flat base of the aquarium box, as
well as help wedge groups of rounder rocks into holding their place. You
should also collect flatter rocks, thinking along the line of ledges,
bases and spawning places. Remember to vary your sizes, but keep to the
same type of rocks. Mixed rocks somehow never look right. Find at
least one or two really large feature rocks. This prevents your aquascape from looking like a heap of collapsed rubble.
The reason your rocks should not have
sharp edges is that sometimes your fish may need to scratch on the rocks
because of the presence of protozoans in their skin and gills. Sharp
edges may scratch their protective slime coat – a certain first step
for all sorts of infections to begin.
Make your way slowly along your
riverbed, stream, or rocky beach and keep your eyes open for suitable
rocks for the three main features. Don’t waste your time with rocks
smaller than your fist, even for a ten-gallon tank. You can always stuff
a few smalls in later if you think you will need them to fill in gaps
or stabilize larger rocks.
Judge likely rocks on the palm of your hand. The wider the base is,
in proportion to its height, the more stable the rock will be once
placed in the tank. Stash likely rocks and edit as you go along. Later,
when you come to use a rock with a tapering pyramidal shape in your
aquascaping project, you’ll completely mask all its lower corners and
edges with your substrate, so that it will rise like the tip of a giant
boulder that is all but buried in the sand and small cobbles of the
floor. In fact, try combining your good pyramid rocks with a second
pyramid so that there’s a narrow cleft separating them. If a rolling
cobble were to come to rest against them, you’d have a cave. Larger flat
rocks with rounded corners may also come in handy as bases or to build
terraces for species that dislike substrate.
Avoid any rock which has plant matter
attached on it (lichen, algae or other plants). If you plan to have a
well-lit tank, the colours of the rocks do not really matter as much as
the shape, because they will soon be covered with algae.
If you will have a normally lit tank you
should avoid white or light coloured stones and opt for darker ones.
The best colours are black, dark gray, dark green and dark brown. These
colours make a natural contrast with the light colour of the sand. The
best stones can be found in the water or at the waterline, since these
stones are washed by water and there are absolutely no sharp edges.
Watch out for any rocks with a vein that
seems metallic in colour (like rusty iron) They may have a metal
content that can leach out in your tank and poison your fish. You could
test them, but I am not even going to suggest this. Just leave them and
find something else.
There is one last question we have to
address here: How many rocks can you safely put in your tank? Remember
that you cannot just keep stacking and expect your aquarium to hold it.
There are limits to everything. A rough rule of thumb is never to exceed
more than half the weight of rock as litres of water in your tank, provided that your tank has been braced and you have a solid board as well as a Styrofoam layer underneath it.
That is a lot of rock — or not — depending on what you collect. The
alternative is to use hollow artificial rock to provide your bulk and
then camouflage it with your natural rock.
THE SAND OR SUBSTRATE
The best sand for a Cichlid Aquarium is plain river sand.
Forget what the ‘experts’ tell you – they usually sell expensive
branded sand and usually try to convince you of the products under the
the guise of ‘buffering your water’. Coral sand does indeed help buffer
your water, but any other sand, shells, or crushed coral meant to
assist in buffering your water belongs in a sump where water constantly flows across it
to have any real effect. Instead learn how to get and maintain the
correct pH factor for a Cichlid tank, because there is much more to this
art than just adding an expensive substrate to your tank!
CLEANING THE SAND AND THE ROCKS
You will have to use buckets and plenty
of water. Don’t rush this procedure; take your time. The more time you
spend cleaning the sand at this stage the fewer problems you will have
later on. Otherwise you will have a cloudy tank, all dust will settle on
the bottom and will then reappear every time your fish stir the sand.
Dust may also clog your filter, especially if you use sponge filters.
Use many changes of water and continuously stir the sand with your hand
until the water runs totally clear.
With rocks you will have one step more.
Before washing them you will have to scrub them with clean brush (tooth-
and bath bath brushes work well) to remove any particles from their
surface. Then you will wash them, separately from the sand
and preferably with some pressure behind your water flow, until the
water runs clear.
Then wash your sand, stirring over and
over until the water runs completely clear. After the final washing you
will have to disinfect your sand and the stones. You can either boil, or
chemically disinfect the sand and the stones. I do not recommend
boiling sand and rocks. It is cumbersome and sometimes the rock may
break, especially if any air is trapped in a hidden cavity. If I am
convinced that the sand and rocks are dangerously dirty, I prefer
chemical disinfection with Hydrogen Peroxide (H202) because it turns
into harmless water and oxygen after 24 hours in contact with water. It
is therefore the perfect solution for use in the aquarium environment.
(Nature uses the same process to sterilise beaches). You can also use
10% household chlorine solution for both rocks and sand. Leave the
chlorine solution for 2 hours and then wash it out with plenty
of water. You can only stop when there is no more chlorine smell and no
foam is formed. The last step is to fill your bucket with water, add 10
times the recommended dose of de-chlorinator and leave your sand in
there for an additional 15 minutes. Stir the sand at this point. After
that, remove the water and let the sand and stone dry completely. You
should then store both sand and rocks in closed containers until you
need them. Many people may still prefer to rather pay for pre-cleaned
coral sand. The size of your tank will tell you if that is a viable
option for you. Coral sand is expensive, but yes, it does to some extent
help you with buffering your Cichlid tank
BEGINNING TO BUILD YOUR AQUASCAPE
As suggested in my hardscaping article,
begin by preparing a workspace on a table where you will not be
disturbed. While it is not possible to construct an entire cichlid
aquascape outside of the tank as I would normally do for a hardscape,
you will construct large parts of it outside the tank until you are very
sure that the arrangement you have is good and ready to go inside the
tank. You may even partially build connecting parts and finish these off
after they have gone into the tank.
Place the cardboard you cut out to
simulate your aquarium floor on the table and mark your rule of thirds
grid on it. If you have a tank that is viewed mainly from the front, add
a cardboard cut out that simulates the back wall of your aquarium, and
also mark that with the rule of thirds grid.
We now need to stop and consider those things that will significantly influence how we are going to build our aquascape.
Our first consideration must be the well-being of our Cichlids – which means we need to understand how cichlids behave, especially once they are kept captive in an aquarium!
As an early pre-warning, please bear in
mind that whatever you build, your Cichlids will try to change your
aquascape to fit their own needs. This is a battle you cannot ever
completely win. They will keep on moving their sand where they
want it to be, and under-dig rocks with a tenacity that can last over
weeks, sand grain by sand grain, in an attempt to move, or topple your
rocks to a more favourable place for them, irrespective of how many
times you put those same rocks back in place.
But why do Cichlids do this?
We need to understand that by housing
Cichlids in our aquaria, we offer them no more than just a miniscule
portion the habitat they would have had in their native habitat — and
then, as is the case in most Cichlid aquariums, not even a habitat
anywhere close to resembling what they are hardwired to from an
evolutionary standpoint. Yet, Cichlids are extremely sensitive to their
environment, and in captivity they become even more so, mainly because
they use their surrounding environment – as most animals do – to mark
and establish own territories. Therefore anything you provide in your
aquarium as ‘décor’ becomes a potential marker or boundary and will be,
or could be treated as that!
Cichlids are notorious for being
territorial fishes. Therefore, the worst possible thing you can do is
to house them in a tank with inadequate aquascaping materials. In days
gone by, some hobbyists wrongly believed that by removing territorially
claimed elements the fish would have nothing to fight about. Today we
know that the emptier the tank, the less these fish can find to mark and
defend their own territories and the the worse the fighting becomes.
I want to make sure that this
re-arrangement battle does not frustrate you — by adding a little
sentence to my original statement: It is a battle you cannot ever
completely win — unless you carefully observe what your cichlids are doing, in order to try to find out the WHY.
The why will almost with certainty point out where you went wrong in
your
idea of a cichlid habitat. And in my experience, the ‘why’ is usually a
lack of sufficient space and space delineation, combined with too few
caves.
Since we know that Cichlids are
territorial, and know that they will aggressively defend their
territories, the only logical answer is to cater to their natural needs.
Where it was once thought that food and breeding are the two greatest
triggers of aggression in Cichlids, it has now come to light that
habitat – or the possibility of claiming part of a given habitat – may
in fact be the most important aggression trigger of all. This makes
logical sense if we consider that Cichlids have large parts of a lake
available in their natural habitat, to live in and on, to claim, to
defend and to spread out in case of disputes. However large our tanks
are, in comparison to what they would have had in the Lake, we can offer
them barely more than just a tiny slice of mimicked nature in the
small, constrained spaces of our aquariums.
We thus have to build in such a way that each of our fish will have a place to call their own,
to which they can retreat for safety, and which they can defend to
their heart’s content against any usurpers. This may even mean building
in such a way that we actually create several VISUAL barriers beyond which fish defending their own patch cannot see!
The
secret is to a happy Cichlid habitat is to ensure that you tank is as
complex as possible. The the key word here is COMPLEX.
The second consideration
is of a more aesthetic nature, namely whether the tank will be viewed
only from the front (and the two short sides), or whether it will be
visible from both sides plus one short side, as it would be if the tank
is a room divider — or from all four sides if it is a walk around tank.
The arrangement of your aquascape depends completely on this.
In the all-round tank, you have to
consider the aesthetics from all sides and create your scape
accordingly. With other words, you will create either an island, or an
island and a slope for the walk around tank. For the room divider, you
will create either an island, or possibly a peninsula which is
‘attached’ to the short side against the wall, and connect it with
outcropping and overlapping valleys as you move towards the other glass
end of the tank. Either construction will greatly influence how you use the rule of thirds.
In the tank with the front view, you
want to avoid a construction that looks like a wall, simply slapped on
and propped-up by the back wall. You need to create mounts and outcrops
with terraces, perhaps with a valley or gully in between and also run
curved sloping peninsulas from these towards the front of the tank. Any
or all of these can help provide those visual barriers mentioned
before. You could also consider a medium height island mount somewhere
towards the front – about one third of the tank length off the right or
left. Position individual rocks or rock formations somewhat away
from the outside, and the back areas of the tank walls. This avoids
dead spots, as staying away from tank walls allow for better water
circulation around the rocks, and gives you more space for maintenance,
as well room for your fish to get by them.
Because of the importance of sand in the
lifestyle of some cichlids you must in both of these cases leave
sufficiently large open areas that will later be utilised for sand.
These areas serve as much as a composition factor as your rocks, because
they ‘frame’ your aquascape, emphasize the focal points and give the
entire scape some ‘breathing space’.
The third consideration is the solidity of your structures. Falling
or slipping rocks can spell total disaster for your aquarium. So
whatever you build — your main priority must be securing the rocks so
that they cannot topple or slip.
The last crucial consideration
must once again be how the habitat you build will benefit the fish you
are going to keep in it, because it will automatically influence how you
are going to put together your rock structures. You are after all not
only creating an aquascape for an admiring human audience, but in fact
are trying to create a perfect, nature-mimicking Cichlid habitat!
We all know (or should by now know) that
African Rift Lake cichlids require a lot of caves, retreats and hiding
spots, that the best substrate for their tanks is well washed sand, and
that the ratio of males to females is of paramount importance.
But there is one more secret to creating a proper Cichlid habitat: The
provision of caves that are never, ever moved, or re-arranged by us,
and can never be toppled or under-dug by the tank inhabitants.
Trivial though this little detail may seem to us, the sense of
permanence and security is of paramount importance to a Cichlid seeking
to claim a personal territory in which to live and thrive.
To understand this, simply consider how
you have chosen your own home to attain a semblance of permanence, have
made sure your ‘back is covered’, and have put security measures into
place to protect yourself and your family. Seeking safe shelter is a
basic instinct for all living beings. Why should it be difficult to understand that your fish need the same?
Permanent caves are easily made from
stones ‘glued’ together with aquarium silicone, taking care to leave
only one entry point. Use a round plastic dish in which to stack smaller
pebbles, building up and glueing with aquarium silicone as you go, as
shown in the illustrations below, and finally camouflage with more
pebbles if necessary.
Alternatively, small clay pots,
(extremely ugly in a tank on their own), can be similarly camouflaged
with stones and built or ‘glued’ into your rock structure. You need to
ensure that these permanent caves also offer a ‘view’, so that the fish,
while inside, or in front of their caves, do not have to strain to find
out what is going on in their particular piece of habitat. Once in
place and claimed by your Cichlids, make sure that you never move, open,
or disturb these ‘caves’. They need to imbue a sense of security and
permanence in the eyes of the fish. You will see how much your fish love
these caves! They will not only sleep and live in them, they will
housekeep these private ‘homes’ by carrying out any any debris and
constantly fanning and sweeping them!
Wake up your inner architect! It helps
if you think of your rock-work as building a step-staggered apartment
block, with marvellous modern curves leading in and out throughout the
whole horizontal plane of the structure, designed to give all its
residents views as well as privacy! Create visual breaks between
territories by bringing some of your building closer to the front of the
tank and then cut back deeper towards the back, almost as if you are
building several sports arenas. Knowing this in advance helps set your
mind in the right kind of frame for creativity.
As to how we are going to secure the rocks against falling, there are two ways.
The first way is to ‘glue’ some of the
rocks together with aquarium silicone, or an aquarium safe epoxy. You
will probably only do this for your more imortant bases and then only
when you are really sure of your arrangement. Also, the silicone or
epoxy should be allowed to dry completely before it is ready to go into
the tank.
The second way is by placing the rockwork on the bare bottom
of the tank, but cushioning it on a cut-to-shape sheet of Styrofoam.
This distributes the weight evenly, protects your glass and makes it
impossible for cichlids to dig under. Then build upon the base,
alternately wedging and glueing in your pre-prepared caves and more
rocks. You could also use ‘egg-crate’ as cushion, but because of the
possible danger of food debris, I usually do not recommend this for a
cichlid tank, unless you have a good deep layer of sand above it .
The last way is to secure the rockwork
to the bottom of the tank with either dabs of silicone, or dots of the
two-part epoxy aquarium cement that hardens underwater. I’m reluctant to
recommend this as it makes future changes difficult if not close to
impossible, and it also leaves a residue on the tank floor that is not
easy to get rid of. I have wondered, whether the insertion of a second
sheet of glass just slightly smaller than the floor could be the
answer, but have never tried it.
Even so, we should not really totally depend on silicone, or cement for stability: a stable rock always sits steady on three points. Chips of slate can be slid in from behind under a rock until it sits tight.
NOW GO FOR IT!
Compose and build.
Choose a sweet spot for your main focal point. This is the largest and
highest of the three complimentary focal points. (The other two points
are determined by the main focal point, and together with the main point
will roughly form an imaginary triangle when finished) Remember to use
the upper part of your aquarium as much as you can. (If you are going to
keep Mbunas, your structure needs to almost touch the water surface,
and you need to create small plateaus on top, with many small pebbles
loosely but densely layered as it is here in the ‘shallows’ that they
will usually hide their fry!) If your focal point is not high enough,
you may have to elevate it by using thick flat rocks as a base. Build
your focal point securely, but at the same time loose and ‘lace-like’
enough to create caves, crannies and nooks. This also allows for good
water circulation through and around the structure!
You should create caves of variable
sizes throughout the entire project — in fact you can never have enough!
Keep in mind that tiny fishes as well as adult ones will use these
caves. The fry released in the tank during the first stage of their
lives will use the smallest caves. They should be really so small that
the fry will fit in but larger fish won’t. This will dramatically
increase the survival rate of all fry in your tank.
Caves are also used by
prey trying to escape its predators; since the victims can be any size,
you need many sizes of caves. Submissive males will also use caves to
escape the harassing of dominant male cichlids, while carrying females,
as well as sick, or wounded fish will use them as a shelter. Finally,
ground-floor caves are often used as day homes for nocturnal species
like catfishes, plecos, loaches and Synodontis species.
Round rocks can help you make really
tiny caves. You just put two round stones next to each other and let
their shape work out the rest. Round stones can also be used as a
support for larger flat stones.
By NOT stacking your
rocks too tightly, you make it easier to later remove any detritus that
collects between the rocks, or at their base. This can be done by
either siphoning, or blowing it out using a water flow source. A simple
turkey baster also works well for this task. It will also allow your
‘cleaner crew’ to move freely throughout the structure to help keep
organic matter cleared.
Next you will tackle the second, lower
and less bulky focal point and lastly the third accent focal point, all
the while continuing your cave-and-pavillion-building style. Once these
three ‘elements’ are complete, be they groupings of rocks or not, stand back and see how they work in terms of placement according to the rule of thirds.
Then decide whether you want to connect
one, two or even three of them to some sloping terraces. You must
construct these ‘connectors’ separately and put them together in the
tank. Use your creativity to create a scene that is not static like a
wall; curve in and out, create valleys and canyons, run a slope down
into the (future) substrate toward the front, use flat rocks to create
spawning places that can simultaneously be ‘roofs’ for caves. Many
species prefer to spawn on flat rocks and will dig for them if you do
not make enough such spaces available.Right at the end you may even want
to half-bury some flat pieces for your fish to find! It gives your
fish somethiung stimulating to do!
Rock-work caves have to be stable. You know that. So, don’t slip up now.
Only glue or putty your rocks together
when you are completely convinced that you will stick with your design.
Also take care not to make any one element so heavy that you won’t be
able to lift it into the aquarium.
TIME FOR SOME IDEAS!
I used the image below in the hardscaping article, even though it is a planted tank. I use it here once again to show how valleys and overlapping slopes
can add to the beauty and ‘depth’ of your scape – as well as add
territorial functionality, were you to use this idea and create a
free-sanding rock structure with similar lines in your cichlid tank. The
rockwork in this example is much too dense to be suited to a cichlid
tank, and there is no sand — but it’s the shape of the
scape I want you to see. Just ‘think’ away the plants and use just the
the composition and lines as inspiration! For interest sake, this is a
tiny 25 litre nano-tank!
In this medium sized cichlid tank below,
large rounded boulders have been used to simulate a rift lake habitat. I
use it here to demonstrate that a difference in levels add to the
visual interest of a cichlid hardscape. I find that there are not enough
caves. I also think it could have been a better scape if the aquascaper
used the rule of thirds. From a design point of view, the addition of
just two more rocks could have made all the difference to this tank!
WHAT NOT TO DO
I have looked everywhere for images of
cichlid tanks that could show you what to do. They are as rare as hens’
teeth! I must instead use images that show you what NOT
to do, because we can all learn from the folly of others. So here
follows a series of tanks that you should absolutely NOT replicate!
Do
not ever use discordant rocks. They will never look natural, because
they do not occur in nature like this. Also use the full top to bottom
depth of your tank. Why leave so much wasted space in the upper half of
the tank?
Could we agree to let nature be the best expression of our spirituality?
Sooo artificial, it makes me weep!
Waste
of a pretty good tank. Discordant rocks, haphazard arrangement,
non-functional for a cichlid habitat – and the top three quarters of the
tank is not just under-utilised, it is totally empty!
Why
bother? Swim throughs are not caves or retreats. Also, there are no
corals in a cichlid habitat. This is clearly an unfulfilled dream,
destined to remain unfulfilled!
No! No! No! The Berlin Wall fell years ago! And again, there are no safe retreats!
The
tank itself is nice. The execution belongs in the Kiddies department.
If you are a parent, teach your children early on why nature is as
beautiful and functional as it is!
The
only plus of this tank is that the rock work uses most of the available
space. However, the rocks are too densely packed, there is almost no
sand and there is very little free swimming space.
ON THE RIGHT TRACK
I cannot bear to depress you any further, so to get you in the right mindset, let’s look at some more positive images!
Another
tank by Aquarium Design Group. This is still an interior design
element, rather than a proper cichlid habitat. I am all for challenging
set perceptions, but not if it compromises living organisms. However, it
is the idea of the layout I want you to analyse and study: The way
elements have been placed, the way the rocks are stretched out and fill
the tank from side to side. Learn from that and make it better. Build
higher upwards. Use the upper space of the tank to create more nooks and
crannies for your fish! There are not nearly enough caves and hides in
this scape!
The
idea is there, but there is a lot of wasted space in the upper part of
the tank, which could add a considerable amount of ‘personal’ spaces to
this habitat! We have two good focal points, but they are very similar
in size and also are placed in the same horizontal plane, so the design
looks static. Both mounds should be higher, but not equally high. Use
your aquarium to its fullest, leaving some swimming space above the
rocks, but a lot more swimming space closer to the front, so that you
can enjoy your fish as they move about. By moving one mount slightly
further back, and the other slightly closer to the front, you’ll
immediately create a habitat with more ‘body’ to it. That is precisely
the point of using the primary and secondary sweet spots!
This
is quite a good attempt in a relatively small tank; the scape looks
natural and offers lots of caves and hides. There is also ample swimming
space. In time, however, the cichlids will outgrow this tank. Always
keep their adult size in mind when you buy a tank or build an aquascape
for cichlids.
The
rock-work here has been very well designed. Although the rocks are not
typical of what you would find in Lake Malawi, the formations look
natural, as if they simply naturally spilled onto the sandy floor.The
tilt and strata lines are correctly used. The balance between sand and
rock is great. There is visual tension and the eye is led towards the
back, creating a feeling of depth. The arrangement also clearly
delineates different territories. The only thing I would change, would
be to heighten the entire scape a little, because that will help
separate upper range swimmers from mid and lower range species, and
would make better use of the upper space the tank actually offers. There
is no reason why you cannot use the overall idea to scape with rounder
boulders!
It is not my intention to be nasty or
over-critical, so please take my comments on the tanks as illustration
as a way to explain in such a way that you can see the stong and weak
points in each one. The aim is to help you to repeat the good and avoid
the bad in your own design – and to encourage you to give it a much more
informed go!
When you have completed your aquascape
design, all glue or putty has cured and dried, and you have cut the
Styrofoam sheets or egg-crate you will need to place under your rocks,
it is time to transfer your aquascape into the tank, element by element
and piece by piece.
The floor of your tank should be clean
and free of grit and sand grains, and you have hopefully already painted
your back wall. A background is one of the best ways to ensure that
your cichlids will feel comfortable in your aquarium – whether you have
gone for a simple layer of black paint to the back wall, or a bought
aquarium background. A background not only helps to make an aquarium
look more ‘finished’ – but more importantly, it provides a sense of
cover for the fish. We do not know why this is so, but when there is a
background, the fish spend much less time “worrying” about their backs!
An excellent way to move stones
into and out of the aquarium is to use a plywood board that is laid on
the corner of the tank, as demonstrated in the sketch below. This way
you prevent damage to the glass edge, and the rock can be handled
completely by yourself.
When you have transported your entire
aquascape into your tank, stand back and let your eyes roam over the
scene. Does it tell you the story you set out to tell? Now is the time
to make adjustments. Check that everything is truly steady and every
rock rests securely on the base of your tank. Make sure that subsequent
layers are equally steady and secure. If not, you may want to add dabs
of aquarium silicone.
When all is done, it is time to add the
sand. Make the layer at least 5 to 10 cm thick. Hopefully you have kept a
couple of small stones that you can now add on top of the sand, close
to the bases of the bigger rocks. This will allow smaller cichlids to
play with their ‘own’ sand while still safe from larger predators. You
may also want to hide a few smaller flat rocks in the
sand. Substrate diggers love them and are amazingly adept at finding
these hidden pieces when they are looking for a flat rock on which to
spawn.
Add water only when all your silicon or
epoxy dabs are dry and odour free. Place a soup plate or small bowl on
the sand floor and direct the flow of your water into this, so that you
do not whirl up dust or disturb your substrate or scape. If you have
used tap water, add the appropriate amount of dechlorinator and let the
tank settle. Then, if you are going to add a bacterium potion, do this a
few hours later. I strongly recommend that you switch on your lights
and cycle your tank for some time before you put any
fish in the tank, for the simple reason that this will allow an algae
growth to begin on your rocks. Algae is an important food source for
cichlids and should make them very happy when you finally put them in
the tank.
Do not put plants in your cichlid tank –
unless you are specifically doing an estuarine or river cichlid
biotope. They will not last, and besides, they simply do not belong in
an African rift lake habitat! If you chose wisely and build with some
thought, your cichlid habitat can take on a stark and rugged beauty of
its own – and above all, it will be exactly what your fish need!
Finally stand back and enjoy.
As I said before, if you wish your rocks
to cover with algae, which are what cichlids partially feed on in their
natural habitat, you need good strong lighting and a couple of days,
but preferably one or two weeks of cycling. Please do not introduce fish
before your system is working properly and your water parameters are
correct. You do not want to experiment with your water chemistry with
livestock in the tank. Check your water flow and add another power head
if necessary. Many cichlids come from the upper ranges of the lakes and
are used to and enjoy a bit of wind-generated turbulence. If algae
threaten to take over too drastically, dampen your lights and check your
water. Rather than using too many chemicals, remedy the algae growth
spurt by temporarily adding a bunch of floating plants (hornwort is both
cheap and easily removed) to help absorb the nsties in the water and
shade the tank without eliminating light entirely. This remedy works
astonishingly well, and has no strange water parameter altering knock-on
effects.
The latest research suggests that a one
hour lighting break at midday via a timer switch is another excellent
remedy against unwanted algae. You can step your lighting back up once
you have your algae eating cichlids in the tank. In the interest
of territorial equality, it is probably wiser to add all your fish at
once. The best time for this is probably close to night time, otherwise
you may want to lessen the lights until they have settled in.
HOWEVER,
you now need to keep a sharp eye on your water quality, as you will
certainly see a nitrate spike if you introduce all your fish at the same
time. Also, refrain from feeding until all your fish have settled in
and found own territories. For the first two or three weeks keep on doing very frequent water changes until your system settles and balances itself.
Maintaining
your aquarium is not difficult if you start your tank with the correct
parameters and have allowed cycling to take place. If you did, you will
find over time that except for water changes or top ups, you will
probably be able to keep your tank ship shape with large intervals in
between. Make sure to count your fish and inspect all parts of your tank
when you do water changes, to make sure there are no skeletons hidden
and no rocks being under-dug by your fish! If you have very good
filtration, siphoning the sand every two months is enough. A certain
amount of organic detritus is necessary for beneficial bacterial
colonies to grow. Just always keep your eye on your water! And don’t
siphon if it is not obviously necessary. Some tanks can go for 6 months
without! Only work the upper layer, leaving anaerobic bacteria in the
lower levels of the sand intact. You can safely recycle sand pulled off
while siphoning, simply by washing and retuning it.
We have come a long way together. I hope
that this guide results in a really stunning cichlid tank of which you
can be truly proud. As you by now must have noticed, your imagination
is the only limit. Rather than a dull, same-old-same-old tank you
should have a gorgeous, natural looking aquarium filled with really
happy inhabitants. Enjoy the spectacle as your cichlids finally claim
their territories, find hides when they are threatened, retreat when
they are defeated and spawn as often as they like. After all, you are
the creator of the habitat in which they will live their lives as they
were meant to.
Good luck!
